Ze started fishing by dropping a line over the side to catch his bait. Jangadeiros must first catch their bait. The line had four tiny hooks, each tied to a short leader and spaced about a foot apart. A sinker at the bottom weighed it all down. Ze set the hooks bare, just below the surface, the monofilament line running over a leather sheath he wore as a glove on his right index finger. He then started jigging the line, bobbing it quickly with his hand to attract attention. It didn’t take long: a minute or two later and Ze pulled out three small fish. Presto-Presto-Presto, just like magic!
“HA!” I cried out. It looked so easy.
The little fish beat the air furiously, making the line jump and quiver. Ze held out his arm to proudly show me his catch, then plucked off the fish and set them on top of the icebox. The hooks now free, back in the water they went. Ze repeated this little hat trick for twenty minutes, building up a nice pile of bait.
Every so often one of the fish would jump off the lid and land on the deck. Ze was quick to pick it up, and like a patient father he talked to each one: “Are you trying to escape?” — “Not this time, little one.” — “You’ll only get back on the end of my hook.” But one fish did make it back with a heroic leap that sent it flying right in front of Ze. Like a toad’s tongue his arm shot out to stick it but he was too late.
“You missed him, Ze,” I teased him.
“He was fast. But I’ll get him later.”
He wasn’t joking.
João was off to a slow start. Seeing that Ze’s line had four hooks, he decided to add another to his own. Retrieving the tiny hook from the liner of his hardhat, João spent most of the time attempting to thread the leader through the microscopic eye. It was maddening to watch him try: lifting his hands close to the light, squinting his fifty-something eyes to see better (no reading glasses here), creeping his stubby fingers back and forth and back and forth while the glistening tip of his very pink tongue, looking more like an alien proboscis, followed along. Several times he thought he had it, only to see he didn’t when he pulled on the line. (I learned some new Portuguese curse words then.) Eventually João succeeded, tied his Snell knot and bit off the excess line. Now he was in business!
Meanwhile, Ze was on to bigger fish. From the basket he picked out two thick spools, each with a single hook and sinker. There were no beads, swivels, springs or clips — just good old-fashioned knots holding everything together. Ze inspected the hooks and pulled on each to test the leader. Satisfied, he baited the hooks with the filleted side of a small fish, then stood at the transom to put out his first line. This was bottom fishing, and Ze had to strip off a lot of line to get the hook down to where the fish were feeding. With each outward swing of his arm, the line clicked softly from the spool.
When the sinker hit the bottom, the line bunched on the surface. Ze pulled out about another six feet, then wrapped the end of the line around the top of the espeque post. He could now set his second line. This was lowered a few feet forward and Ze finished it off in the same manner as the first: stripping off more line, wrapping the end around the same espeque post, placing the spool on top of the icebox; both of the battens still pregnant with line.
Time to start fishing. Standing between the lines at the rail, Ze pulled in the slack and took a line in each hand. He now extended his arms out to the sides and started jigging, vibrating the lines ever so faintly, shooting down little pulses that said, take me—take me—take me…
João was finally catching some bait — one fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish (Dr. Seuss). But he was much more interested in what Ze was doing. He kept glancing over his shoulder to check on Ze’s progress, and would stop altogether when anything interesting happened.
This was understandable. With his scarecrow lankiness and lightning reactions, Ze was an easy man to watch. Most of the time he stood calmly at the rail, arms stretched out, palms upturned (put him in a robe and let his hair grow long — such a Moses you would hope to sign). But when a fish hit a line it was like flipping a switch. Ze would leap from the deck while shooting up his fist to set the hook. As his body descended the fist came with it, now reaching out to feel for the fish. There were just two possibilities – fish on or no fish.
No fish was no fun. Ze’s fist would drop and he would shake his head in disappointment. His sorrow did not last long — there was work to be done: he had to raise the hook and check on the bait. This was done in a flurry of arms, beating like dragonfly wings to bring in the line — hand over hand over hand over hand. If the bait was still on and firmly attached, back in the water it went. But if the hook was bare — Deus mio! You bad-bad fish! — he shook his head some more and returned to the bench to stitch on another piece.
Fish on and Ze’s eyes would shine; he’d haul it up as fast as he could. The line was strong, so he didn’t have to worry about breaking it. There was no playing with the fish, making sport of the catch. It wasn’t about that. It was about landing the fish as quickly as possibly and getting it into the basket. It was about produção (production) — moving on to catch the next fish. More than anything it was about survival — putting food on the table — man vs. nature in a timeless encounter.
In the first skirmish man easily won. The fish was small and Ze brought it up fast. When it was next to the rail he simply reached down and handed it on deck. Out of the water the fish fought for its life. It beat the planks wildly, was making such a fuss, I moved down the mast to get a better look. I was surprised by how small the fish was: a red snapper, weighing less than two pounds. Ze had pulled it up so quickly that the fish’s swim bladder ballooned from its mouth like a giant wad of bubble gum.
Ze grabbed the araçanga and gave the fish two sharp raps on the head. Instantly the tail stopped kicking — the fish was dead. Picking it up, Ze pulled out the hook and used his knife to nip off the top end of the tail fin. This is the traditional marking for a proeiro’s fish. (The bico da proa cuts the lower caudal lobe, the contra bico notches the head, and the mestre leaves his fish unmarked.) After dropping the fish into the sambura, Ze turned to me with a wide grin. “Now we have lunch!”
For another half hour I watched them fish. In that time Ze caught a second snapper, similar in size to the first, and João, who finally got his single line into the water, hauled up a ten pound jewfish. It was a beautiful fish, craggy and ancient looking, and João was very happy with his catch. Holding the fish off to the side with a finger through its gills, he bent down to peer inside the basket (though he knew exactly what was in there). He then lifted his fish in my direction and crowed, “This garoupa is better eating than the cioba and harder to catch!” Having made his point, João dropped his fish into the basket and returned to his spot.
Next chapter: One Man Band